Taneli’s latest fashion collection was born from a passion and admiration for Estonian national patterns. Its roots go deep into his childhood, when he would endlessly draw dancers in folk costumes—especially after parties in Tallinn and Intsikurmu. The latter was the site of folk festivals in Põlva, located in the summer paradise of Tanel’s grandparents. Fueled by a burst of inspiration, Tanel once glued together about ten sketchbook pages to draw the entire parade he had seen. 😊
In connection with the year of grand celebrations, Tanel returned to his roots. The initial spark for Unimoon came from a visit to the Estonian National Museum (ERM), where kind gallery staff allowed him to gently touch the treasures from the museum’s collections—wearing white gloves, of course. What a wild whirlwind of colors and patterns!
First, Tanel painted a large number of shapes, at one point even considering using watercolor patterns. But in the end, he stuck with a more authentic, embroidered look. And so began his search for his own Estonian symbols—until characters from Estonia’s summers and winters found their way into these wild pattern plays.
Bullfinches – they came to eat seeds in the lilacs of our Nõmme backyard on the coldest winter days.
Great tits, swinging in the bird feeder my father built in the apple tree.
Mosquitoes, the bitter companions of Estonian summer 😉
Wild strawberries… the pinnacle of taste! Picked in the forests of Põlvamaa, despite the bugs and the heat.
Ladybugs, how many years old are you?
Bees – the day grandpa spun the honey was a celebration! Chewing the combs!
Mushrooms, the passion for foraging runs in the blood. Rubber boots on, into the forest!
Bleeding hearts and forget-me-nots – my favorites. In fact, “Meelespea” (Forget-Me-Not) is also one of the choral songs I sing with the Vikerlased choir at the summer song festival.
Baltic herring – puts salmon to shame 😉
White transparent apples in the city grandma’s backyard, the first fruits of summer.
But also dragonflies and snails, crowned frogs and pansies… I’ve mixed these motifs with visions from a hundred years ago.
For Tanel, the bold world of color and pattern in national heritage is deeply important:
“Estonian national patterns and colors are incredibly encouraging for a designer. For example, in this photo there’s an especially bold Muhu sleigh blanket with neon colors and striped strawberries. 😊
For me, color is energy. Thankfully, Estonian folk heritage hasn’t clipped my wings in that regard—I let the brightest shades and fiercest color combinations shine far and wide.”
And why the name Unimoon for the series?
“Unimoon lures you into psychedelia. That’s where the name comes from—‘uni’ as the realm of dreams and visions.
The golden age of Estonian folk costumes (and sleigh blankets) was shaped by national romanticism, which itself was influenced by the festive garments of the Baltic German nobility and the fashion trends of the upper class.
In national romantic art and literature, dreamlike nature motifs emerged, woven together with a deep, almost hypnotic longing for something lost or unattainable.
And moon—the poppy—is like the ceremonial crown of the Estonian summer, almost exotic in its vivid splendor.”
But this series isn’t just about dazzling plays of color — Tanel explains the darker side of the collection:
“Part of the collection also dwells in the twilight. In flowers glowing softly at night and in achromatic wreaths. The beauty of the poppy fades away in a vase in an instant. A bright flower vanishes like a dream in the morning light.
The delicate transience of the poppy — it’s close to the decadence aesthetic that fascinates me, where life, art, and beauty are exalted through their fragility and impermanence.
A tender sorrow, the ephemerality of beauty.”
The collection was created following a zero waste—or at most minimal fabric waste—principle. Each piece features a unique pattern designed by Tanel and is printed with exactly the amount of fabric needed to make that item. Most of the products are one-of-a-kind, intended for women who see themselves in them and can thus have truly unique folk garments of their own.
I’ve tinted the areas without pattern thinking about materials for pockets or belts—nothing goes to waste!
The collection also includes silk scrunchies (hair ties), sleep masks, and a series of fabric bags—so there’s an option to get something more affordable from the series. Perfect as a gift!
For Tanel, the collection’s presentation is a chance to create a story, stage it, and play with atmosphere. Usually, the collection is accompanied by a series of masks that amplify the message.
The Unimoon series gave fabric bags heads and knots eyes—kind of spooky national mythological characters. This whole army was suspended in the air at the Solaris atrium—a powerful cloud of floating beings. But in the end, these silk garments land on the bodies of their wearers.
Isn’t there a contradiction here?
“With my folk costume-inspired clothes, I find it important that they are light and flowing, easy to wear. I make clothes you can comfortably rock and feel free in, no matter your body shape or age. These are also folk clothes for the city dweller.
In the city, roots from different regions meet—but here we are. Born in the city, enjoying urban comforts as cosmopolitans. The city is a dreamy, memory-filled, collage-like meeting place.”
