The origin story of pearls is truly extraordinary—they are formed in the hidden chambers of mollusks through a slow and mystical process. Whether in fresh or saltwater, the formation begins when an irritant (such as a grain of sand or a parasite) enters the mollusk’s shell. In self-defense, the mollusk starts coating the irritant with layers of nacre, eventually creating a smooth, lustrous gem of perfection.
Tanel Veenre uses freshwater pearls in his jewelry—pearls that are cultivated in controlled environments, where each treasure has taken years to mature.
Throughout history, pearls have held a special status—often considered the most precious of gemstones. In Ancient Rome, they were worn as symbols of wealth and power, a luxury reserved for the elite. Pearls gleam from the portraits of many Renaissance and Baroque aristocrats. When we think of one of history’s most powerful rulers, Queen Elizabeth I, we almost always picture her adorned with luminous pearls. Beyond being a hallmark of the fashion of the era, they also symbolized power—and in her case, most importantly, purity.
And who doesn’t know Vermeer’s iconic painting Girl with a Pearl Earring, where a single small piece of jewelry becomes the quintessence of the entire artwork—and the era itself?
Both Elizabeth I’s aristocratic beauty ideal (her pearl-like, glowing pale skin!) and Vermeer’s artistry have been important references in Tanel Veenre’s evolution as an artist. These parallels can be seen in several of Tanel’s photographic compositions.
Fast forward to the 20th century, when pearls made a fashionable comeback. Their champion was none other than Coco Chanel, who transformed the long strand of pearls into a symbol of elegance. As a pioneer of fashion democratization, Chanel blurred the line between high and low—she often preferred imitation pearls in her jewelry. Those iconic portraits of her draped in opera-length strands? They were fake pearls!
As a timeless icon of feminine grace and pearls, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s instantly comes to mind. Her innocently large eyes and the sincerity of her character made a perfect match with the glowing white pearls around her neck.
Poets have often woven pearls into their verses, using them as poetic metaphors. There is something inherently mystical and unique about the glow of a pearl—its white luster like moonlight captured in a small, rounded treasure.
Shakespeare writes in The Winter’s Tale:
“The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens.”
Why choose a Pearl?
You can’t go wrong with pearls—they possess a timeless, almost eternal elegance. Pearls add refinement to any look, whether it’s a simple sweater, a floral dress, or a truly glamorous evening gown.
While pearls often bring a touch of vintage charm, bold styling can make them feel refreshingly modern. Unlike fleeting trends, natural pearls are an investment—treasures that can be cherished and passed down for generations.
Pearl Care and Quality
Properly cared-for pearls will retain their luster over time. The best way to preserve their beauty is by minimizing exposure to chemicals, as harsh substances are the greatest enemies of pearls. Avoid using heavy chemicals, and be cautious with creams and perfumes. To protect your pearls, store them in a soft cloth pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratches. Clean them gently from time to time with a soft, damp cloth to remove oils and dirt.
Pearls love to be worn—the natural oils from your skin actually enhance their shine. So, wear your pearls often and with joy!
How to Assess the Quality of Pearls
Unlike diamonds, which are graded based on the 4 C’s (cut, clarity, color, and carat), pearls are evaluated based on the following combination of factors: luster, surface quality, shape, size, and color.
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Luster refers to the sharpness and brilliance of the light reflected off the pearl’s surface. Pearls with high luster have a bright, mirror-like, and shimmering shine, while pearls with lower luster may appear dull or hazy. Luster is perhaps the most important factor in pearl grading, as it directly affects the pearl’s overall beauty and appeal. Imitation pearls, especially those made from plastic, usually have a duller, shinier, or glassy surface that lacks the depth characteristic of a real pearl.
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Surface Quality:
Natural pearls have imperfections known as “blemishes.” These can include spots, cracks, or rough patches on the surface. Pearls with fewer visible flaws are considered to be of higher quality and more valuable. However, small imperfections can sometimes add character, especially in freshwater pearls with a more organic appearance. Imitation pearls usually have flawless surfaces and appear too perfect, with no irregularities.
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Shape:
Pearls come in various shapes, most commonly round, but also semi-round, teardrop, and irregular baroque shapes. Round pearls are the most prized due to their symmetry and uniformity. However, in recent years, baroque pearls have seen a significant rise in popularity, captivating with their lush, organic shapes.
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Size:
Generally, larger pearls are more valuable, but this should be assessed alongside other qualities of the pearl. The freshwater pearls used in our jewelry typically range in size from 7 to 10 mm.
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Color:
When it comes to pearls, white is typically the most common, but there are also creamy, pink, lavender, golden, black, and even bluish variations. A pearl’s color is determined by its natural environment, the type of mollusk, and the water in which it was cultivated. While traditionally the most sought-after pearls are white, colored pearls such as the rich black Tahitian pearls or golden South Sea pearls can be just as valuable. Our collection features unusually deep-toned black pearls, of which we are especially proud for their color and quality.
When assessing pearls, these factors are combined to create a rating that reflects their overall quality. Pearls are typically classified as A, AA, AAA, and AAAA, with the latter being the highest grade, indicating exceptional luster, clarity, and perfect roundness. All pearls used in Tanel Veenre jewelry are AAA+ (very close to perfect quality) or AAAA grade freshwater pearls.
How to Recognize a Fake Pearl
Distinguishing between real and fake pearls can be challenging. In addition to assessing texture and shape, the following characteristics can also help differentiate them:
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Tooth Test:
When gently rubbing a natural pearl against your tooth, you’ll feel a slight organic roughness. Fake pearls (usually made from plastic or glass) feel smooth and slippery, without any texture.
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Weight Test:
Natural pearls are typically heavier than imitation pearls because they are made of layers of nacre, and their structure is denser than those made from plastic or glass.
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Heat Test:
Natural pearls feel cool to the touch initially, but gradually warm up when in contact with your skin. In contrast, fake pearls usually feel cool to the touch and stay cool.
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Uniqueness:
Natural pearls always have slightly different sizes and shapes. Imitation pearls, however, are typically identical in size and shape.
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X-ray Test:
When x-rayed, a real pearl shows a characteristic layered structure, whereas a synthetic imitation pearl lacks this layered structure.
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Price and Source:
Genuine high-quality pearls, especially cultured pearls, can be expensive. If the price seems too good to be true, the pearls are likely fake. It’s also important to trust transparent and reputable brands and sellers.
In short, the classification and evaluation of pearls is both an art and a science, aimed at capturing the delicate balance between nature’s randomness and human craftsmanship. Each pearl is a small miracle, a unique treasure. Upon closer inspection, every single pearl is slightly different from all the others. Pearls are like human eyes – each one is unique, and no two are exactly the same.
